“Sometimes, you read a book and it fills you with this weird evangelical zeal, and you become convinced that the shattered world will never be put back together unless and until all living humans read the book.”
― John Green, The Fault in Our Stars
Replace that with 'place' and you have what I feel for Old Manali. I visited this charming little village of Manali during the Good Friday weekend of March 2024.
I first came across Old Manali through videos by travel youtuber Visha Khandelwal, who spent over a month there during lockdown.
I left for the place by taking Thursday off from work and since Friday was an off I got four full days off for my trip. In fact, I have learned that slow travelling which truly grabs the essence of each moment is what suits me best. Hectic vacations don’t offer the same sense of escape I crave from the routine of office life.
I booked my bus to Manali for 28th March 2024 taking the earliest one at 5.30 PM. In hindsight, I could have picked a later bus so that I would have reached around 7 AM when there is more light in the hills. However, I managed to get a direct taxi as I stepped down from the bus even at 5 AM. The driver dropped me off at the hostel in Old Manali which was only around 15 minutes from main Manali bus stand. It is best to take the numbers of the taxi drivers even if you may not use it later.
Before coming on this trip, I had done my mini research and the two places I wanted to visit were Manu Temple and Rocky's cafe.
On my first day i.e 29th March morning I set out at 6 AM from my hostel and went walking up till Manu Temple. The route was pretty straight and google maps helped me navigate easily. I reached Manu Temple and took a look at the landscape from its elevated viewpoint. I stayed a while there, as two kids played in the verandah without a soul in sight.
Manu temple, the kids playing and the view from the temple (early morning)
I stayed for a while, took in the view from the elevated level where Manu Temple is and then left and walked towards Rocky's cafe. Along the way, I passed stalls selling Tibetan food like thupka, lafing and siddu which I promised the ladies of the village, who were selling them, that I would try on my return.
At a crossroads near Rocky's cafe, to my delight, I saw a sign "Trek to meadows" and it immediately caught my attention. Meadows are my favourite - vast expanse of greenery where the wind feels like a thousand soft caresses. I couldn't resist so I took the path less travelled, and it turned out to be the best decision.
As I walked, a splash of bright yellow flowers started to come into view but it was not until a few minutes later as I walked on that I realised what a place I had journeyed into. I am putting a picture below as to how it looked in March.
The meadows of the 'Trek to meadows' from the Rocky's Cafe Crossroads
An expanse of bright yellow flowers across the valley was visible in the early March morning with only a few elderly locals walking here and there. As I walked with my pink rucksack across those fields I couldn't help but stop a while and sit in the middle of the meadow filled with yellow blooming flowers to soak it all in. Flowers, however, are a thing of my mother and so I video called her and sent her a picture. I stayed for a while, playing music on my phone and when it became a bit too quite I thought it better to retreat back, however, if you are coming with other people you can surely explore the place more and go ahead and let me know what you find.
On way back, I again met the ladies selling thupka and all and stopped at one of the stalls as recommended in Visha's Old Manali cafes video. I ate a thupka and lafing. The lafing was specially tasty with its perfectly tangy flavor that I absolutely love.
By the time I returned to hostel, it was 2 PM and I checked into my room where I spent rest of the day exploring the surrounding terrace gardens in front of the hostel and enjoying the view of the mountains and forest from the hostel entrance.
Day 2 - 30th March
The room I had taken was with a balcony but I didn't expect the view from balcony to be this good. Right from my room's window I could see the backside of the forest. Long deodar trees as soon as I opened my eyes. Oh! as I write this I want to be there again - I think Old Manali I have fallen in love with you since.
I woke up refreshed, maybe it was just the mountain air, or the fact that I had slept the night before like a baby after I came back having travlled for hours by foot and before that a long bus ride. I woke up and today on my agenda was visiting the Hidimba temple which I saw online and was located right in middle of a forest but like I said a lot of good decisions and things happened in this trip and so my day did not go as planned and for which I am forever grateful.
It was raining but I took my umbrella and left. I have realised over time that in life's storms and in rain its best to move ahead than to stop for it to wait. So I set out towards Hidimba temple which was again only 9 mins walk from my hostel.
Hidimba Temple
As I was going towards it I met a women who told me to explore a park nearby. Initially, I did not pay the suggestion much heed but it was only around 11 AM when I came back from the temple and I still had more time to explore.
So I decided to explore that park the woman told me about. Entering the park was like stepping into a secret world like the jungles in Narnia in fact exactly like it. I entered into this so called "Nature Park" but there were no boards or any such thing which I found strange at that time because it was not until later that I understood I entered from the OUT side of the park.
The park started from the centre of Manali town as Manal's forest department and took you straight to Old Manali.
I entered from back gate in Old Manali and I was greeted by gaint deodar trees and the road beneath my feet crackled with leaves and twigs like the sound of fire in a fireplace. As I went deeper and deeper into the forest I noticed there were carefully made paths across and besides those huge trees. The best part was Beas River flowed right beside the park, with the usual tourist activities like rapelling happening on the other side. But where I stood, it was just peace and quite. I plugged in my earphones and started walking among the giant trees watching over me.
As I continued walking there were many local people to be seen, groups of kids, people talking on phone it seemed people from here usually took their evening walks in this park. The path was long but every bit refereshing and it took me 30 minutes to reach other side of the town. In middle of the way, I
found spaces where there were magnificient logs of wood covering large areas
The Nature Park Trails
of forests broken probably by their own weight or storm, I do not know. I reached the Manali town and saw the board of "Nature Park" when I understood where that lady had led me to.
As I entered the mall road of Manali I wanted to get out of it as soon as I could, the place was as hectic as Delhi and completely opposite of Old Manali. I spent few minutes and quickly went back to the nature park towards Old Manali.
At one point in my journey back, I climbed through a hole in the fences lined on the side of the forest facing the river. I sat close to river, though I would not recommend this without being highly careful, slow and intentional with your steps, which I was.
I listened to the water rushing, saw the people rapelling and was happy to be on the other side of those activities. I got up, packed my socks and shoes I had taken off to dip my feet in the water and walked towards my hostel contented.
It was around 2 PM and once again I found myself with nothing much to do. Earlier that morning, I had inquired about any treks that were going and talked with the trek leader but due to rain that had not panned out. Nevertheless, I had went ahead exploring on my own. As I was heading back to the hostel for lunch I saw the trek leader walking towards Manu temple road with a group of people. He saw me, and in one swift motion swirled me around and encouraged me to join them for the trek.
I hesitated a bit but since I had no other plans, I decided to go with them. Everything on this trip had turned out so well, thankfully that did too (Good friday was proving to be a lucky day). We went towards the Rocky cafe beyond which lay the path to "Khamra Valley" the trek our guide was leading.
We walked on and on and realised the Rocky's cafe wasn't as good as it used to be. There was construction going and there was dust all around but the the view remained unchanged - a clear sight of the Vashisht Waterfall and the meadows I had accidentally discovered earlier !!
We had our lunch at the cafe, where there was also a wall for painting. I painted and wrote a few things and then we continued our hike. The trek leader took us deeper into a forested area where we crossed a small waterfall and navigated narrow pathways, until we finally reached a point with a clear view of the majestic Himalayas.
Khamra Valley Trek
We stayed there for a while, soaking the beauty and clicking pictures. By the time we started our journery back, it was already 5 or 6 PM. On the way abck, we also attempted to start a bonfire but failed after several tries. I had packed a banana and an apple with me, which I ate to curb my hunger, as we were getting quite late.
I walked back faster than rest since my phone was switched off. Always charge!! and finally I reached my hostel at around 8 PM which is quite late for the mountains. The vibe at the hostels rather than hotels are always vibrant except in few hostels. There was bonfire and I met some amazing people many of whom I am still friends with. We listened to music, shared conversations that I rarely have in my daily life and slept with the unmistakable feeling of contentment that only the mountains can give.
Day 3 - The Day of return.
Today I just spent the morning sitting in front of my hostel with a chair and a view to look at for hours with a cup of tea or coffee.
But before all of this, early morning I was welcomed with SNOW! I was beyond excited though probably not as excited as my mother would have been - she loves snow. I thought to myself "I should definetly bring her here someday" (and I would recommend the same for anyone - Old Manali has something for everyone and better do it sooner than later because it is bound to become a tourist hub soon.)
As the snow gently fell and settled on the green deodar trees outside my room - the view from my room was serene. I made some videos for my mother but I did not stay outside for long since I am not the biggest fan of snow . Later when snow stopped, I sat in the garden outside the hosteller, waited for my cab and witnessed a hot air baloon too! (yes the delightful surprises in this trip was unending.)
Morning View from Hostel's Garden
I reached the Manali bus stand on time and took off for Delhi back to my home. But then again "I was not going home. Not really" - Harry Potter and the Philospher's Stone.
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